CULINARY JOURNEYS • ITALY & NEW YORK
Antica Pesa: The Roman Restaurant—and Wine Book—We Never Forgot
A recommendation in Sorrento led to an unforgettable Roman dinner, more than 1,100 wine labels and a story that followed us all the way to Brooklyn.
It began with a recommendation from an American couple we met over lunch in Sorrento:
“If you only eat at one restaurant in Rome, make it Antica Pesa.”
“If you only eat at one restaurant in Rome, make it Antica Pesa.”
That was a strong endorsement—but they were right.
Located on a cobblestone street in Trastevere, Antica Pesa has been operated by the Panella family since 1922. The restaurant respects the traditions of Roman cooking while presenting them with contemporary polish.
Cathy’s favorite dish was the Spaghetti Cacio e Pepe, prepared with 36-month-aged Parmigiano Reggiano. It was deceptively simple and deeply flavorful—the kind of dish that proves Roman cuisine does not need a long ingredient list to be memorable.
Cathy’s favorite dish was the Spaghetti Cacio e Pepe, prepared with 36-month-aged Parmigiano Reggiano. It was deceptively simple and deeply flavorful—the kind of dish that proves Roman cuisine does not need a long ingredient list to be memorable.
Calling it a “list” was generous.
The server returned carrying an enormous leather-bound book containing more than 1,100 labels, including bottles approaching $1,000. We later learned that members of the staff were taking bets on whether John would ever choose one.
They underestimated him.
John patiently studied the book until he understood its organization by region, varietal and vintage. He eventually selected an excellent bottle at what we considered a fantastic price. Mission accomplished—and perhaps a little respect earned from the staff.
Ten years later, we returned to Antica Pesa in Rome. Then, in 2021, we visited the Panella family’s Brooklyn location with Cathy’s cousin Lisa. When we shared the story, one of the owners brought out “the book” so Lisa could finally see it herself.
The surroundings had changed, but the memory traveled with us.
Practical Information
Where: Trastevere, Rome
Best for: Roman cuisine, special occasions and serious wine lovers
Reservations: Strongly recommended
Good to know: The former Williamsburg location announced plans to relocate. Verify the current New York location before visiting.
Official site: [Antica Pesa] (https://www.anticapesa.it/en/)
Through Our Lens
The meals we remember most are rarely defined by food alone. Sometimes it is the recommendation that led us there, the challenge of navigating a 1,100-label wine book or the opportunity to return years later and discover that the story has traveled with us.
Related stories: Rome Through Our Lens • Dining Across Italy • Our Favorite Travel Wine Discoveries
Would we return? We already have—and we would again.
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